Top Rope Solo Setup

Sometimes you just want to be alone, right? You also want to be climbing, which is typically done with a partner to belay you. There are techniques for climbing on your own with a rope to prevent you falling to the ground. Unlike Alex Honnold I think it’s nice to have a rope to save you. I would not advise a new climber to go rope solo, it takes some knowledge in rope technique and rope management. There are typically two ways to climb alone with a rope: Lead solo and top rope solo. Same as when climbing with a partner: lead climbing is a bigger challange and generates more dramatic falls. Start with a top rope!

Petzl Devices
There are as many variants of doing this as there is climbers out there (almost), the general principle is to have a system you can overview easy, back it up and understand what could generate issues. Petzl have a few guides on how to use their products as progress capture devices. Petzl General guidelines, Petzl setup 1 , Petzl Devices overview

My system is a variation of Petzl system. I use a Micro Traxion and a GriGri, that makes it fast and easy to transition to rapelling. Also it is devices that I previously owned.

Rapelling with my TR Solo setup. Traxion cam is open, backup knots on the white line.

Top Rope Solo: 2 ropes, 2 devices
My setup is focused on security and might be overkill. But it works good for me.
I use two ropes on a top rope anchor; one static 10mm line and one dynamic rope 9,5 mm. On the static rope I attach the Micro Traxion with a oval carabiner on the belay loop. The Traxion is held up by a shock cord around my neck (do not use slings or something that can hurt you in a fall). This makes a fall minimal, just a couple of centimeters. That is why I use static line for the Traxion, a potential fall length is minimal. If I would have used the Traxion on the dynamic rope there would be more movement of rope in the cam and I think that would wear the rope more. The cam consists of several metal teeth and I’ve seen videos of big falls on rope where the teeth shears the sheath of the rope. On the dynamic line I connect a GriGri2 (no modifications) with a DMM Belay Master 2 on a short sling girth hitched to my harness tie in points. I weigh down the rope with a half empty water bottle or similar, and when climbing the rope feed through the GriGri flawlessly. This would not work with an old scruffy rope with a worn sheath. So the dynamic rope is my backup to the Traxion, and they are totally independent on each other. At the top I can rapell down with the GriGri and lock the cam in open on the Micro Traxion. On the way up I do a few backup knots.

Top rope solo system weighted. Micro Traxion and GriGri

Gear I use
30 m dynamic rope 9,5 mm
30 m static rope 10,5 mm
Petzl GriGri with a DMM BelayMaster2
Petzl Micro Traxion with a DMM Oval Keylock girth hitched with a 30 cm nylon sling
Anchor building: 4-5 Locking carabiners, 2-3 Slings (120-180cm)
Rope protector! (or redirect the force from the climber on the anchor below sharp edges)

2 Replies to “Top Rope Solo Setup”

  1. Hej! Tack för bra och tydlig beskrivning av set up för topp rep solo. Jag är ny i klättervärlden och lär mig hela tiden! Får jag fråga hur du bygger ditt ankare med två olika rep, ett statiskt och ett dynamiskt?
    Vänliga hälsningar, Pontus

    1. Hej Pontus! Jag brukar bygga mina ankare med slingor, inte med repen. Sen kopplar jag in båda repen i ankaret jag byggt med två olika karbiner.

      Om jag bygger ankare med rep så använder jag ytterligare ett rep, alltså ett till statiskt rep som bara är del av ankaret.
      Hoppas det var tydligt.
      / Jonas

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