Top Rope Solo Setup

Sometimes you just want to be alone, right? You also want to be climbing, which is typically done with a partner to belay you. There are techniques for climbing on your own with a rope to prevent you falling to the ground. Unlike Alex Honnold I think it’s nice to have a rope to save you. I would not advise a new climber to go rope solo, it takes some knowledge in rope technique and rope management. There are typically two ways to climb alone with a rope: Lead solo and top rope solo. Same as when climbing with a partner: lead climbing is a bigger challange and generates more dramatic falls. Start with a top rope!

Petzl Devices
There are as many variants of doing this as there is climbers out there (almost), the general principle is to have a system you can overview easy, back it up and understand what could generate issues. Petzl have a few guides on how to use their products as progress capture devices. Petzl General guidelines, Petzl setup 1 , Petzl Devices overview

My system is a variation of Petzl system. I use a Micro Traxion and a GriGri, that makes it fast and easy to transition to rapelling. Also it is devices that I previously owned.

Rapelling with my TR Solo setup. Traxion cam is open, backup knots on the white line.

Top Rope Solo: 2 ropes, 2 devices
My setup is focused on security and might be overkill. But it works good for me.
I use two ropes on a top rope anchor; one static 10mm line and one dynamic rope 9,5 mm. On the static rope I attach the Micro Traxion with a oval carabiner on the belay loop. The Traxion is held up by a shock cord around my neck (do not use slings or something that can hurt you in a fall). This makes a fall minimal, just a couple of centimeters. That is why I use static line for the Traxion, a potential fall length is minimal. If I would have used the Traxion on the dynamic rope there would be more movement of rope in the cam and I think that would wear the rope more. The cam consists of several metal teeth and I’ve seen videos of big falls on rope where the teeth shears the sheath of the rope. On the dynamic line I connect a GriGri2 (no modifications) with a DMM Belay Master 2 on a short sling girth hitched to my harness tie in points. I weigh down the rope with a half empty water bottle or similar, and when climbing the rope feed through the GriGri flawlessly. This would not work with an old scruffy rope with a worn sheath. So the dynamic rope is my backup to the Traxion, and they are totally independent on each other. At the top I can rapell down with the GriGri and lock the cam in open on the Micro Traxion. On the way up I do a few backup knots.

Top rope solo system weighted. Micro Traxion and GriGri

Gear I use
30 m dynamic rope 9,5 mm
30 m static rope 10,5 mm
Petzl GriGri with a DMM BelayMaster2
Petzl Micro Traxion with a DMM Oval Keylock girth hitched with a 30 cm nylon sling
Anchor building: 4-5 Locking carabiners, 2-3 Slings (120-180cm)
Rope protector! (or redirect the force from the climber on the anchor below sharp edges)

Micro Expeditions plans for summer 2019

It feels like spring is here in Stockholm so ideas for summer start to bloom. This is a few ideas, hopefully all of them can be executed.

Trail running 190km on Roslagsleden
Roslagsleden is a trail north of Stockholm, it’s 190km long and well marked. Windbreaks, water sources and resupplies are scattered along the way. That makes lightweight traveling possible. The idea is to bring essential gear, sleep in windbreaks, get food along the way in cafés or grocery stores and run the whole trail in 3-4 days. 2-3 nights out. That would be ~48 or ~64 km per day. I think that would be possible. I would pack sleeping bag, sleeping mat and some clothes in my Inov-8 Race Elite 24.

Glacier travel and alpinism in Kebenekaise
Last year I did a glacier travel course, and then climbed Kebnekaise from Nygrens led. This year the plan is to have a mobile camp and camp higher up in the mountain. Do longer linked traverses around Tarfala and Kebnekaise area. Kaskasapakte looks like a nice climb.

SUP Overnight trip
I’ve done two overnight trips on stand up paddleboard before. But just one night and short distances. The idea for this summer is to use Stockholms excellent archipelago transport system to get out easy with an inflatable stand up paddle board and then set of with a clear plan of where to find fresh water. There’s shops etc scattered in the Stockholm archipelago to it wont be to hard to find water and food.

Sailing to Gotland and Gotska sandön
I sail go to Visby for work in the summer, but the plan is to continue afterwards to Gotska Sandön, if weather and waves permit we take the SUP boards to shore and visit the nature reserve Gotska Sandön with it’s unique nature.

Solo climbing – NO NOT Free Solo.
I’ve done a fair amount of top rope solo with a GriGri and Micro Traxion. If you are a climber you know that top rope climbing is limiting in access and excitement. I’m going to try to lead solo on easy routes, mainly in Stockholm area. But the best trad climbing nearby is Simonsberget in Tunaberg, where I will try to spend some time this spring and summer. Andy Kirkpatrick a british big wall climber writes a lot of great material about climbing and gear.

Klättring utomhus i Stockholm

This story is in Swedish, translation will be linked here in the future.

Kartan innehåller ett litet urval av klippor i Stockholmstrakten. Fler klippor i Stockholm hittar du här.


Häggsta klättringsklippa i Stockholm
Häggsta klätterklippa i Stockholm

Det finns en liten sektion som är bultad, men hit åker man för tradklättring. Det finns flertal lätta leder allt från 8 meter till 50 meters multipitch. Generellt är det inte jättelätt att hitta bra säkringsplaceringar men övning ger färdighet. Rampväggen är lämplig att börja öva på, tydliga sprickor och rätt korta leder vars bultade ankare går att nå ovanifrån via en led med kedja att hålla i. Allmänt finns bultade ankare eller firningsankare på de flesta av lederna på Häggstaklippan och dit kan man promenera om man från parkeringen går upp i skogen och håller vänster, då hamnar man ungefär vid Fyrbultsväggen. Firningsankare etc är oftast anpassat för 60 meter rep, så det klarar man sig med.
Börja med Ekleden, Fyran och Direttissiman och när du vill klättra en “normsexa” på trad så heter leden “Omöjliga väggen”

Ta sig dit
En klassisk klippa i vid stranden av Albysjön. Rötter från 30-talet där klättring utvecklades i Sverige.

Sverigeföraren (ligger nere ibland). PDF som backup


Örnberget sva-partiet klätterklippa i Stockholm

En klassisk klippa för dem som gillar hårda överhängande leder. Men det finns faktiskt en sva-sektion med många lätta leder som passar bra att börja sin utomhus led-karriär. Välbultad och ganska långa leder med bra ankare. Den överhängande sektionen ligger uppåt backen och ser ganska respektingivande ut. Mellan sva-delen och överhänget finns en liten sektion (Candyland) med ett par leder runt grad 6. Leden Panta Rei 7A, står på många klättrares ticklist.

Ta sig dit
Klippan ligger vid Tullingesjön, enklast är att ta cykeln på pendeln och cykla sista biten (eller promenera). Det finns ingen parkering direkt vid klippan, parkera inte på vägen vid svaklippan, det har retat upp mängder av lokala boende.

27 Crags har en utomordentlig förteckning


Ekoberget klätterklippa i Stockholm

En bra klippa för många, finns en mängd leder i svårighetsgrad 5-7c+. Borrbultade leder, aning sva-ig klättring mestadels. Trevlig miljö med badsjö precis vid klippan.

27 Crags har bra information

Nacka kvarn

En trevlig klippa nära stan som man kan cykla till eller åka buss. Det går att parkera en bit ifrån klippan. Man kan sätta topprep om man går runt klippan från vänster då finns både riggningsankare och toppankare. Fina leder är Ignition 6b+ och Totalvägra 7a (som man kan träna på med topprep).

27 Crags har en utomordentlig förteckning


Allmänt så är cityklipporna roliga att besöka en gång för att ha gjort det, men klättringen har mer att önska. Det är oftast sprängklippor, kladdiga av avgaser etc. Men läget är ju optimalt om man vill hinna lite klättring i kvällssolen en sommarkväll. Några av dessa är: Kanalklippan, Münchenbryggeriet, Långholmen (Boulder med klassikern Houdini). Där Kanalklippan sticker ut som den med bäst läge och omgivning.

Top 5 Tips for Climbing Knowledge online

It’s not hard to find information and guides about anything online, climbing is no exception. The problem is to find good resources with correct information. Here is a list of five resources with high quality information (according to Out For More)

1. Petzl Tech Tips
Manufacturer of climbing gear and verticality equipment with a big section of their website filled with tech tips on everything from crevasse rescue to multi-pitch climbing. Great illustrations and Petzl is a really reliable source of information.

Online magazine with a variety of articles from tech to fun articles about different stereotypes in climbing.

3. SuperTopo Website and YouTube channel
One step towards more geeky climbing stuff. Big wall, trad etc. Great information and a good YouTube channel with a few gems.

4. UK Climbing
A good source for guides on alot of locations mostly Europe. Some gear review and articles.

5. Weigh My Rack
Gear gear gear, reviews, shop and everything in between.

Nordic Ice Skating in Stockholm

At last, the season for ice skating on lakes around Stockholm is under way. It has been for a while actually, and I’ve done a couple of trips. First the small and shallow lakes freeze up, this is fine in the beginning of the season when you just want to get out. When time pass and you get tired of skating small lakes, that’s usually when Stockholms really big lake Mälaren freezes in some parts. You get the feeling of freedom when there are big areas of ice. And then, at last, the salt water of the Stockholm archipelago freezes and this is when you really can do the longest and most spectacular ice skating tours.

Skating here is a unique thing, micro climates and shifts in the weather and temperature gives us the possibility of almost always during winter have ice. Snow melts, new ice appear, old ice get good after a clear cold night. It’s like magic.

I’m not going to touch a lot on security, but I think you should really know what you are doing before you get out on the ice in the winter. Every year people die.

If you want to start off, go on a tour or take a course here are some links:
Stockholms Guidebyrå
Ice Guide

Some inspiration from Nordic Ice Skating in Stockholm this season (2019)

Löpning på Sörmlandsleden 5:1 – 5:2 i mildvintern

This story is in Swedish, translation will be linked here in the future.

Att springa längre än 2 mil är en av mina favoritsysslor när man har lite tid över. Jag har sprungit Sörmlandsleden ett antal olika sektioner: tex Sörmlandsleden Handen till Ösmo och Handen till Huddinge. Båda ca 4 mil och trevlig löpturer som passerar genom naturreservatet Paradiset som är en av mina favoritställen för skogslöpning / trailrunning. Där kan man hitta ett antal rundor från 4 – 9 km som alla utgår från parkeringen och är välmarkerade.

Löpning på Sörmlandsleden en lagom kall vinterdag.

Men denna tur började i närheten av Nynäshamn vid pendeltågstation Nynäsgård och går norrut så långt man orkar. För mig räckte det att springa till Hemfosa, men man kan göra turen kortare eller längre efter egen smak. Det är detta som gör Sörmlandsleden till den perfekta långa löprundan, speciellt om man uppskattar stiglöpning / trailrunning. Man klarar sig utan karta då lederna är väl markerade (även från kommunal trafik).

Sörmlandsleden trainrunning löpning.
Sörmlandsleden löpning vid sektion 5:2 / 5:3

Denna dag var kylig och stigarna var i vissa områden riktigt isiga och eller snöiga. Jag sprang i vanliga trailskor, utan vinterdubbar. Men med Sealskinz-strumpor, vilket funkat bra för mig. Vanliga strumpor som blir blöta drar lite för mycket värme från fötterna. Med Sealskinz eller Neoprene blir fötterna blöta, men isoleringen gör att man inte behöver frysa. Jag har inte testat “vattentäta” löpskor, men har erfarenhet av vandringsskor och jag tror samma sanningar gäller löpskor. Mina slutsatser är att skorna och fötterna blir blöta oavsett material. Därför är det effektivare att se till att man kan behålla värmen med blöta fötter. Dessutom torkar vattentäta produkter lite långsammare. Just denna dag hade riktiga metalldubbar på skorna kommit väl tillpass, isfläckarna doldes lömskt av ett tunt lager snö på vissa ställen. Där det bara är snö greppar vanliga skor utmärkt.

Sektionerna 5:1 och 5:2 på Sörmlandsleden är inte de vackraste jag sett, men i min jakt på att se alla så var jag ändå tvungen att springa då de är så lättillgängliga. I Hemfosa finns ingen kiosk eller liknande vid pendelstationen. Ösmo har en affär om man rör sig en bit från leden.

Trail running: Sörmlandsleden Handen – Huddinge 31km

This is not an epic adventure, but it is a small piece in the puzzle called Sörmlandsleden in Stockholm. A well marked trail that I am working on running or hiking in sections. But mostly I find it to be a perfect trail to do long runs on. You can easily connect the trail with public transportation and you can adapt the length super easy. I really recommend all runners in Stockholm to try it. This saturday I took the commuter train to Handen and ran to Huddinge. Section 5, 6 (50%) and 6:1. It had been raining for a couple of days so the trail was a maze of water puddles – You will get wet feet. Around Gladö Kvarn and the last kilometers near Huddinge is road or dirt road.

The best part is no doubt the area called Paradiset where you run along a few lakes. The area has a couple of round trails that is well worth doing too. A good thing with running on Sörmlandsleden is that you don’t have to look on maps, gps or phones all the time. You just follow the orange markings and when the section start or ends there is a sign post with information and maps. It cannot be easier.

If you want to figure out some good sections for you to run, look at my Google Map over Sörmlandsleden. Makes it really easy to connect sections with public transport etc. There is no end to the possibilities!

Tips in swedish on running/löpning Sörmlandsleden from Nynäsgård

Trail running: Pico Arieero – Pico Ruivo – Encumeada. 18 km

This is the classic peaks of Madeira: Pico Ruivo and Pico Arieero, both easily accessed with car or taxi. Not as easy with bus. I wanted to do both of these mountains as an A – B tour with my full backpack so I could move from Funchal to São Vicente. I took the bus to Poiso and started walking towards the radar dome of Pico Arieero, but gout get a ride the the parking lot. I did these trails with all my luggage so I did no running for me. Both these trails consists of a lot of steps, up and down and a few tunnels. So the running is not very flowy or fast, and the steps can be slippery. Still doable of course and the scenery is amazing. If I did this again I would do a longer trail, maybe start in Poiso and go all the way to Sao Vicente. Sleep and eat there and then take the bus back the next morning. So you can run without a heavy pack.

This is just something you have to to if you go to Madeira. The streams in the mountains are probably drinkable (I had a Sawyer filter as backup) but I didn’t have to try that. I carried ~2 liters of water.

Trail running: Caniçal to Porto Da Cruz. 21 km

I started in Funchal, taking bus 113 to Caniçal. There I ran back along the shore and then followed a mountain trail up some small peaks and eventually I came to the tunnel where most people start the trail called Vereda do Larano. Flowing trail running through picturesque villages on a Levada in perfect weather. Arriving at the look out viewpoint Boca do Risco, after that the trail takes on a new shape. It’s still very flowy and runnable, but on some sections the trail in 1 meter wide and then a steep cliff. I walked those sections. When approaching Porto da Cruz evidence of trail running appears as there is a couple of marked and graded trails around Porto da Cruz. I took the bus back to Funchal.

If you want to do a longer run, continue from Porto da Cruz to Ribeiro Frio adding ~16km and from there take a bus.

Top 5 Tips for spending MORE time on Youtube

Since we can’t always be outside doing our own adventure, some of my time is spent looking at other people doing adventure on Youtube. Sometimes that feels sad – to spend that much time in front of a computer. But hey, I’m a proud consumer of youtube video. To make your time well spent; here is my 5 tips for youtube channels to follow. In no particular order.

  1. Mediocre Amateur. One guy and his friends doing trail running, skiing and alot more. Loads of ridge walking, sketchy climbing, bushwhacking and puking. One of the guys seems to own a red helicopter…..
  2. Hiking Nerd. The name says it all. A nerd that hikes, or is it a guy nerdy about hiking. Not sure. He video looks good and it’ts worth to try. Gear reviews and trips.
  3. Team BMC. The British Mountaineering Council. Look under their playlists Skills. Where they cover everything from scrambling to ice climbing. The other content is of varying quality.
  4. Venture Lives. There are sooo maaaany channels about a couple sailing the world. Some of them stand out. This is one of them I think. They are based in Alaska and the scenery is stunning. Not a huge amount of content to binge watch.
  5. REI. – Yes the American retailer of outdoor gear. They have a mix of content. Some well produced short stories about a huge range of people and subjects. And also a big section of tips for beginners, everything from how to pitch a tent to how you choose climbing shoes. Well produced.

Trail running: Sörmlandsleden Handen – Ösmo. 43 km

I wanted to test my feet and legs again on a distance more than 40 km, last time was Roslagsleden 2 days overnighter which went great. Now it was time to do at least 40 km with a higher tempo. Sörmlandsleden is my natural choice, and since I miss a section I just hade to fill that gap.

Section 5, 5:3. 5:2 (sadly I did not have energy to do 5:1 which I still have never hiked or ran). I knew from before that section 5 is really nice, specially towards the end in Paradiset. 5:3 and 5:2 delivered too, but some sections is dirt road which always takes my energy level down. I would love to run from Handen to Nynäshamn, but the 53 km scares me a little bit.

Top 5 Things I Always Bring on a Trip

For every trip you make the procedure of packing your pack will be smoother. Make lists of what you need for different applications, seasons etc. This is the five items i ALWAYS bring.

  1. Knife. A small knife will do, I use a small multitool call Leatherman Squirt.
  2. Cord. I am not a big fan of paracord, the sheath comes of too easy. I have a 10 meter long dyneema cord 3 mm diameter. It’s strong enough for most things, tent guy line, fix backpack, shoe lace, tie branches to a make a stretcher etc.
  3. Phone. It can be your light, entertainment, watch, map, gps etc. Most important you can call for help if needed. I never let the phone be my only means of navigation for example, batteries will run out …. That is why I also bring a spare battery to my phone, If your phone don’t have that. Bring a small powerbank or have it turned off.
  4. Watch. When you navigate and move a watch is really good to help you keep track. Also you can save your battery on your phone not having to turn it on and off all the time. Time can be really important especially in navigation and emergency situations. Either I bring a really simple watch with batteries that you change every 3 year, limited functionality, but very reliable. Sometimes I use a gps watch, which adds functions but then you have the constant battery problem.
  5. Snacks. Never leave home without it. It can save your mood or you can bribe someone. My Top 5 Energy Snacks.

Other than this you of course need water, food clothing and gear appropriate for the conditions. Navigation: map and compass.

Top 5 Tips For Your First SUP Overnight Trip

Are you a standup paddle boarder looking to get more of an adventure out of your great hobby. Here are five tips to get you started on a SUP overnight expedition.

All my gear for one night SUP trip

  1. Start small. Begin with a one night trip. This helps alot with the packing, you can simplify your food to snacks and things that don’t need a stove. Also the amount of water you need to bring is limited.
  2. Pack smart. Bring what you need and leave luxuries at home. At least until you know how you and your board handles loads. You should of course not put security aside.
  3. Backpack is your PFD (Personal floating device). Pack your lightest things in a dry-bag. Sleeping bag, clothes etc. The backpack now acts as a lifevest. A real life vest or PFD is of course more effective, it’s up to you what you need
  4. Plan your trip. Try to get a A-B tour, paddling with backpack and luggage upwind is alot more challenging that downwind. So check the weather report and paddle with the wind all the time. Get a friend to pick you up at destination, or try to find a place where your can leave your car and get back via bus or train. If you need to return to the same spot, use islands to provide wind cover.
  5. Go Inflatable. When paddling (at least in Stockholm archipelago) you want to jump ashore on the rocky islands to take breaks and find camp. A rigid glassfiber board does not like being dinged against rock etc. An inflatable SUP could also be transported on public transportation which open up alot of A-B trip possibilities.

Arriving at an Island.

Fornstigen Trail in Stockholm

When you pass the castle Drottningholm you’ll find a perfect trail very close to Stockholm. It is 18km long and suitable for mountainbike ride, trail run or hike. The trail is well marked with blue squares.

The trail is popular with sunday walkers, mountainbikers and runners. On a weekend you will not be alone. This is a perfect hiking trail in Stockholm, specially if you visit Drottningholm.

Roslagsleden Hiking north of Stockholm

Roslagsleden is a hiking trail in old viking areas. It was started 1977 and have been extended to Grisslehamn. You can get to the starting points by commuting traffic. It starts near Danderyds kyrka and ends in Grisslehamn. It is 190km long and is well marked with good camp grounds, water sources and cafées and lodging. There is 11 sections, if you are fast/running you can cover more sections.

Google map for Roslagsleden with water sources, wind breaks and cafés and lodging.

Sörmlandsleden Hiking trail in Stockholm

Sörmlandsleden is one of the bigger trails in the Stockholm area. It is well marked and can be accessed by commuter traffic and can therefor be walked from A to B. It starts at a subway station called Björkhagen The trail has windbreaks in the camping areas which most of are situated by a lake with drinkable water (boil or filter if you want to be sure). The homepage has alot of information and maps for members. The trail is well marked and water sources is scattered all over so you don’t really need more guiding.

This map contains the actual hike and camping areas and water sources.

Camping in stockholm. Sörmlandsleden

sörmlandsleden early winter
Sörmlandleden with some snow

Hiking sörmlandsleden

Old cave found hiking i Stockholm

Top 5 Hiking Trails in Stockholm

Stockholm is a great place for weekend hikes or day hiking. It’s really easy to get to the trails with public transport and it’s not that far away. This is just a pick, there is so much more to find.

  1. Kärsöleden. A 6 km marked trail on the small island Kärsön very close to

    Kärsöleden trail

    Drottningholm. You can make the hike longer by walking along the shore all the way there from the City centre. Just follow the waterline, the path is actually really nice almost all the way. From Tranebergsbron and back is 25 km. If you start from the City Centre, just follow Norr Mälarstrand along the water and pass over the bridge.

  2. Tyresta By. One hour from the city you find a café and alot of trails that spreads in different directions. Take the tram to Handen then a bus to Tyresta By. From there you can make excursions just for a day or overnight trips. Sörmlandsleden connect to Tyresta By and it is a hub for alot of trails. The campsites are mostly located by picturesque lakes and provide a windbreak and wood for a camp fire.
  3. Hellasgården. Just a half hour away this outdoor area is the perfect destination both summer and winter. When the lake freeze up you can go ice-skating, in summer there are a myriad of trails for running, walking or biking. From Slussen you take a bus to Hellasgården
  4. Hagaparken. This park at the edge of the city provides some nice strolls and cafés and museums. Combine with a visit to Naturhistoriska Riksmuseet. Walk from Odenplan or take a bus to Norrtull or Ynglingagatan
  5. Sörmlandsleden. The easiest option for a multi day hike in Stockholm. You can choose where to start and stop depending on how long you want to be out. This map of Sörmlandsleden shows cafés, campsites etc. My two tips are Mölnbo to Järna or Flemingsberg to Handen

Top 5 High Energy Snacks for the Outdoors

When running, walking, paddling, biking or whaterver adventure you are on – you need energy. This energy need to be carried by you, so look for energy dense products for when you need energy. Fat is a very high density energy product, but you can’t eat only fat. This is my top 5 tips to add some extra energy to my ordinary camping food.

  1. Oils. Coconut oil in particular. It doesn’t go rancid in ambient temperatures. Most oils have 800-900 kcal per 100g which is really high. Use it in your porridge, coffe or freeze dried food.
  2. Air dried salami. My favorite is Fuet, a spanish dried pork sausage. 470 kcal per 100g. This salami holds up well in normal temperatures, can look a bit sweaty in heat. Smell and taste it, I’ve never had Fuet go bad on me in the field.
  3. Parmesan. I just love to have a big chunk of parmesan as a snack or to cut down in my freeze dried food.  Hard cheese holds up really well outside the refrigerator. As long as the cheese taste good and smells ok and is mold free (mold can be cut away), it’s good to eat. 400-460 kcal per 100g.
  4. Cashew nuts. A perfect snack, full of energy and also some protein and fibre. Eat whole as is, or crush and add to your morning porridge. 550-600 kcal per 100g
  5. Marzipan. Yes you read that right. Marzipan (mandelmassa/marsipan in swedish) is a very sweet, packed with energy and some protein. Takes some getting used to. I mostly bring it when I’m doing really high activity sport – like running. 480 kcal per 100g

Parmesan and Fuet salami. The perfect mix.

As comparison most Clif Bars are ~400kcal per 100g.